DINING DIARY | COMBINA / by Brackett Bilodeau

Image courtesy of ny.eater.com

Image courtesy of ny.eater.com

Einat Admony, mastermind behind beloved Balaboosta and Bar Bolonat, leaps into 2016 with the recent unveiling of her latest venture. Combina breathes new life into the space that formerly housed Taka Taka, nestled cozily on its bustling SoHo corner with tables aglow beneath soft ceiling lamps and floor-to-ceiling windows for a perpetually airy feel -- a perfect setting for Admony’s inventive combination of European, North African, and Middle Eastern influences and traditions. Executive Chef Molly Breidenthal (also of Bar Bolonat) joins Admony, turning out the perfectly balanced menu: a collection of idiosyncratic dishes perched confidently between quaintly curated and carefully expansive. Tapas-style dishes range from a mere few bites to comfortably sizeable, all designed for sharing, highlighting extraordinary juxtapositions of contrasting flavors and recipes new and old. Go for the salt cod donuts (trust us on this one), pickled mussels atop matzoh, lamb belly with harissa romesco and a labneh-esque yogurt, pink peppercorn hanger steak with pomegranate tahini, and last but certainly not least, the persimmon carpaccio -- a full plate of vibrance offset by squid ink (both aesthetically and gustatorily). Admony’s fifth NYC project is quickly living up to its predecessors. Contact your Attaché for reservations and more menu picks.

330 WEST BROADWAY AT GRAND STREET